Mozambique Fashion Week
I have been invited to the MFW and what a fantastic experience.
They are doing one show per day - 9pm in the evening - in secret venues which means that no one knows where the venue is until 12pm the night before the show. The venues are all absolutely beautiful. Last night it was at the station a old stately building with amazing character. We were fantasizing on chartering a plane filled with our clients and friends bringing them to Maputo for one night - putting minimalist rooms into an old train and having everyone stay on the platform for the evening. There is a fantastic little bar and restaurant in the station - eating there tonight.
The after parties were also kept secret so it was all very secretive and exciting. This can only work in a small town where absolutely everyone knows everyone. I wonder who is going to copy them first as in SA we copy, copy, copy - very few original ideas.
The focus at the MFW is on development. Vasco the owner of MFW is very serious about training and mentoring existing designers - at the moment they do not have a Fashion School in Maputo but they are working on it which is great. MFW worked with Elizabeth Galloway Academy of Fashion Design in SA.
The models are beautiful - it is a huge challenge to start with nothing and build it year by year - looking at past MFW's you can see enormous progress.
I am staying in the Polana which is really a disappointment - they have renovated it and it is totally ruined, it looks like a one of those revamped chain of hotels in SA - totally without character, such a pity. Service and food is excellent though.
Will post pictures soon. LB

It wasn't only about the centre stage

Here are some snapshots from backstage of the Mac makeup team and Carlton Hair team doing what they do best! Again, thank you to these awesome sponsors!

The Last Word.

The last word and the last thank you must go out to everyone!

So here's my Oscar speech:

-ahem-

Thank you to each and every designer who contributed to the SA Fashion Week Winter Collections

To each and every person who came to watch, media, buyers, friends, guests, sponsors!

MAC make - up for the exquisite range we saw on the ramp and how each and every look contrasted the fashion collections.

Jameson, for the awesome, awesome bar catering - for those of us who got jameson chips, you know how amazing that champagne was!

there's a lot more to thank... I'm not good with formal thank you's

But thank you!

And thank you SA Fashion week :)

it's been amazing!

Till next time...

Paris B

The Grand Finale

What happens when you mix theatre and fashion? You get the birth child of designer Clive Rundle. To say that the whole of Johannesburg was there to watch his show is an understatement. No more like as many people as possible living in Gauteng. Hey, I mean even William Kentridge was seated across from me (I kinda made a fool of myself trying to awkwardly introduce myself and compliment his work)

But anyways...Moving on.

I walked into a room that had the voice over of a woman discussing different bird calls and the description of the bird. Clive's 'braille' collection looked at how fabric can tell the story of fashion. How when we obscure our vision, and really feel with our hands - the fashion only exists when we can touch it and prove that it is there. Tactile textures was the theme for this range. And it then makes sense why the models had white fringing hanging in front of their eyes - walking in like soldiers, blind to fashion but warriors of texture.

To top it, Clive had Zolani Mahola and Kyla Rose Smith from SA band Freshlyground make the music for the show. When I mean 'make' I mean, Kyla played the violin whilst Zolani sang.

Lyrics like 'I need to see you' - everything was built around Clive's view that

"There is no ABC in the designer's sensual and fluid (re)interpretation of Braille as a patter mend-tactile communicative medium"

Breathtaking

New

Daring

Art

Below from left to right:

The white fringing

The work of Edward Scissorhands

Turquoise is the colour of the year

See you next season

Paris B

The Last Stretch - Day 3

The range from designer Hangwani Nenghovela of Rubicon, hinted at gold shimmered fabrics and black satin. There was an underlying theme of evening wear and the sex appeal it wanes from women. Rubicon did just this. Long evening dresses and black feathers made the models look ever so sexy and ready for a night out.

Black:

The black number

For those who live in Joburg, you'd have noticed how dry it is here. Not an inch of rain - it's terrible. Yet with a name like Thunderstorm, I pretended that it had been raining for days on end, and suddenly, jozi didn't seem so bad afterall.

Thunderstorm too looked at knitted beanies and hoodies to make sure one would stay warm 'n comfy this winter.

Moments of tartan, and light blue stitching added to the cool attitude of the models.

I'm gonna be really corny here, but i couldn't resist:

The range was as cool but as bold as any old thunderstorm.

Wow... that was dry.

(even that unintentional pun!)

I'm gonna stop before I hurt myself....

Below:

Vibrant juxtaposition of styles and colours

Gert Johan Coetzee was the last designer of this show. And from what I read and saw, he is obsessed with making the female figure look absolutely breathtaking and beautiful.

From patterned tops, to short skirts and patterned cross-hatching folds, the range was versatile and dynamic. One must applaud him on his impeccable attention to detail and craftsmanship.

Below:

Gert's attention to detail and his love for theatrical forms

Back with the Grand Finale

Paris B

Sat Oct 2nd - The last day of SA Fashion Week

So, we started out on Wednesday the 29th and already we are not only at the end of our winter collection journey, but it also happens to be a new month!

Does anyone else see the predicament of this situation or is it just me?

Ze Year Haz Flown Pazt.

Oi.

Never worry though, with tonight's lineup ahead, the evening is sure to be the perfect Grand Finale.

First up, Lebo Mash, Nabeela, Sibu Msimang, Karen Monk Klijnstra.

Gauteng raised Lebo Mash took us back to the Retro 50's - moments of vintage met with moments of Twiggy fever, soft iced cupcakes and ice-cream parlours.

Light, soft yellows and pastel beiges and oranges teamed up with apron dresses, embroidered tapestries and high waist belts.

The high pony tail finished off the vintage look perfectly.

Below:

Vintage chic

Designer Nabeela Akbar's winter wonderland is vibrant with all different colours and geometric shapes. Rectangles of black and grey, black and yellow, turquiose and pink and grey and red met together in a duality of cool, fun and fresh - so as to lighten up the winter.

Woolen knitted scarves and beanies reminded us of the little things winter urges us to have during the season.

Below:

Colour duality

Sibu Msimang really explored crocheting with wool this season. Making whole dresses out of woolen crochet was by far the most exciting thing to see. Black dresses with thick, visible cream stitching and neatly tied bows at both the back and front of the dresses. A reinvention of the zip showed how the zip was used as decoration and detail rather than an application for opening a dress. Shoulder pads once again made their appearance (like the grass shoulder pads of Kutoano Molokomme) were this time knitted with wool.

Ahhh yes and lets not forget, the pinstripe!

Below:

The crochet dress

The Black dress with visible stitching - like pinstripe

The range and Sibu

It is clear the Karen Monk Kljinstra lives in a world much different to mine. She has certainly found a way to escape reality and instead enter her imagination into a world of wacky, funky colour, pattern and contrast.

I have found that method yet - tips would be appreciated.

The outfits were constantly changing and transforming into something new and far more different than the outfit that preceded it. Layers and various eclectic takes on different trends made up the various contrasts and ideas of Karen.

Below:

Karen's range

Paris B

Ladies and Gentlemen, Vesselina Pentcheva - Day 3

When I first met Vesselina Pentcheva, I thought I was meeting royalty.

Day 3 of SA Fashion Week, Winter Collections, was rounded off with a new, delicate and fresh collection from Bulgarian born designer Vesselina.

Her usual tailoring and attention to detail was showcased in soft flesh colours and flimsy fabric, teamed with mustardy chartreuse stockings and shoes.

Revived colours of pale lime greens, pinks and purples was combined together to create a wardrobe fit for any princess.

The conversation around me that I happened to eavesdrop on was exclamations of wonder at the ultimate indulgence in romance, the beauty of weddings and even Matric dances.

Obsessed with detail Vesselina brought out a range so skillfully finished that her range became unique - like a fingerprint - only to Vesselina.

It was so fresh because of the young fleshy colours she used and the indulgence in netting and voile combinations. Silk chiffon, Corseting, mohair, embroidery and satin, were some of the combinations of fabrics she used.

There were reminders of why its ever-so-sexy to show off a little cleavage - elegantly mind you.

The beauty of the rose, jewels and french lace pulsated through my mind as each outfit outweighed the previous.

Even the make up was graceful. Brown and maroon hue with hair tied back in buns, and straight french fringes.

Words like: fleeting moments, light, soft, subtle and meringue come to mind

I felt like I was being graced by the honour of famous ballerinas like Margot Fonteyn

and actresses like Grace Kelly in Loveboat and Kirsten Dunst in Marie Antoinette.

There was a sense of overwhelming royalty, gracefulness, elegance and flamboyancy.

It made you want to fall in love again, become a princess and live in a fairytale.

Below:

The green stockings against the white - NEW 'n FRESH!

The almost mustard green silk organza and netting short dress

Yellow brocade corseted A-line dress with soft netting trimmings

Back later with the last day...

Paris B

Friday 1st October - SA Fashion Week Day 3

Tonight's line up: Ruby, Gugulam and Sies! Isabelle.

Let's not forget the importance of sexy underwear. Not only does it make you look drop dead sexy but also, it's kinda what you need to wear under your clothing. Duh.

From netted skirts to luxurious lace, designer Robyn Lidsky from Ruby specialises in fashion-forward lingerie and hand crafted accessories.

Shimmering glitter and red and gold ribbon contrasted against the black lingerie that made it's way onto the ramp. Touches of nipple pink here and there reminded us that lingerie, although always sexy, needs to be somewhat naive at the same time.

But most of all was the cheeky facebook lingo that she incorporated into the lingerie - like 'omg' and the like logo from facebook.

Below:

Sexy lingerie meets it's formal and naughty side

Facebook lingo

Designer Isabelle Lotter chose the best name for a fashion label - I think. Just saying it is awesome. Sies! Isabelle.

And with the name, I can boldly say, her range was just as awesome.

Innovation for Isabelle is a key factor here - making a dress that becomes a scarf at the neck piece.

Duality of black, cream and black together makes the range just the right temperature for winter. Transformation also seems to be a reoccurring theme where in one case a short cream dress went from shoulder formality and elegance to baggy and casual on the other side. Dark eye make up was contrasted with black stockings and brown boots.

Dyed felt and fine cotton meets minimalism and subtlety.

Below:

the felt and linen jackets with dyed detail at the bottom

The dress that transformed from elegant to casual

Gugulam designer Gugu Msomi understands variety and that there is a dress for every occasion, for every woman and for every time of day.

Revival in its most abundant form lies in the variety of past fashion trends that I saw on the catwalk that evening. Suspenders, Polka dots, pastel yellow, leg warmers, Fur and Mink, the beatnik era, Psychedelic fabric and embroidered tapestry.

There was a great amount of eclecticism from all kinds of fashion periods and trends.

Gugu definitely offers a wide range from which to use and which you feel, best suits you.

Below:

Retro chic with embroidered tapestry

Woodstock '69 Reunion

So when I was about 15 and like all rebellious and what not, I always imagined getting a tattoo - my mum made it very clear what was going to happen to me if i ever got one. Adoption.

So I kinda got over the whole idea of tattoos. I have a feeling designer Terrence Bray had the same urge as a teen. So instead, he incorporated prints of human torsos and backs onto his fabric. Sounds confusing? Ok picture this, classic vintage from the front and then as the model turns around, the image on the naked back 'tattooed' (actually printed) onto the fabric. Almost reassuring that we are only human, with or without our clothes on.

Greys, blacks and creams pieced themselves together as thin black ties made it back into the spotlight. Geometric triangles layered one another and ran down the front of the dress whilst dresses split down the middle into human body prints.

As terrence explains:

'we express our identities through the ways we choose to shroud our naked bodies in cloth, yet we are eternally intrigued by what lies beneath and search for the person behind the clothes, the mind and the body and the soul and in some cases the mechanics of the brain, the hidden beauty of the anatomy and the life force it supplies'

Fashion versus humanity - the ultimate truth.

*applaud*

Below: (left to right)

Triangles make their way back into fashion (you can't run away from mathematics forever)

Human versus fashion

Dress confesses our secret: we are only human

Vintage elegance

layers and layers

Back later with Vesselina :)

Paris B

The Last Of The Evening - Day 2

Gina and Caren Waldman of fashion label TWO are good at what they do. And when I say that I mean they're good at experimenting - and pulling it off really well.

New fabrics and materials never limit the duo. From leggings to an almost look alike denim (linen) that had white leopard print printed on it - innovation is the keyword here.

Stripes - like in the Elle show - also made its appearance here. With phrases like 'stripes are the now' and 'stripes are the new stripe' printed on the dresses - this range wasn't to be taken too strictly but rather with attitude. Long sweeping all in one dresses and catsuits seem to be a reoccurring theme here.

Oh and skinny jeans was so last season - skin tight melange pants is now.

Below:

Stripes are back.

Skin tight 3 quarters

Rachel de Mardt's excessive use of black in this range helped redefine the meaning of 'sexy' in winter - an unflattering season. And too much black, is never a bad idea.

Grungy leather and slanted shoulder cuts brought about this 80's biker feel.

Oh wait - maybe that was just because of the early 80's Madonna music playing in the background?

Pity David Bowie wasn't modelling.

Oh yeah and shoulder pads and sequence covered dresses are back - by the looks of things.

Below:

Late 70's, early 80's, Glam rock.

Let's not forget that fashion needs to be widely accessible to the public at times.

And this universal, functionable aspect is what makes Loxion Kulca's shows, so entertaining to watch.

Because although commercial, it will always retain it's individuality and its own attitude.

But hey, there is nothing wrong with commercialism - just look at the Beatles?

This season brought back 70's cool. Words like groovy and movies like Tarantino's Jackie Brown. There was an abundance of beanies, takkies, hoodies and denim. Also wearing a cap the front way round. Backwards was for when you were young and graffittying walls.

Going back to the roots of funk and reveling in South Africa's cultural diversity. Vibrant colours and moments of bold orange filled the catwalk.

Oh and you know that thing we had in our country like 3 months back?

The soccer world cup?

Yeah that thing. Well yellow and green alongside each other is going to stay forever - not just cause of the soccer.

Below:

the awesome clash of contrast and styles

the green and the yellow - sans the soccer though

House of Ole reminded me why Menswear is just as exciting as women's wear. Trust me.

From bow ties to polar necks - Ole Ledimo made men look sexy, classy and cool.

With an underlying urban funk theme, there were bow ties covered in mohair, moments of leopard print revival, polka dot ties, the red jacket and the pea coat.

One must applaud him on his professional skill and detail because the range was truly well made and finished. And the models were styled as if the clothes were made for them and them alone.

If only I was a guy...

ahem.

Back later with Day 3

Paris B

Below:

The pea coat that made the audience applaud like crazy

the funky red jacket and bow tie

Thurs 30 Sep: SA Fashion Week Day 2

Well, second day it is then and is the place buzzing?!
With a line up like Silver Spoon, Christopher Strong, Colleen Eitzen, Two, Rachel de Mardt, Loxion Kulca and House Of Ole it's no wonder that the place was so alive on this Thursday night in Jozi.

First up was designer Stephanie Beyers from Silver Spoon.
English tea and scones, the classic 1930's, twiggy, parsley sage, rosemary and thyme - that was all that kept ringing through my ears. Dark grey, baby pink and the touch of maroon made its way onto the ramp. Forgotten details like gold buttons and classic grey school socks reminded us not to forget about the small things that make up a vintage outfit.
Classic vintage floral patterns in dresses and fine shirts made me wish I had a thermos of Earl Grey tea with me.
A juxtaposition between the mature, conservative colourway and the childlike forms, that together create what Stephanie describes as 'a fairytale come to life'.
The memory of the hood and the velvet dress reminds us of how winter demands layering in fashion. Stephanie explored this layering by proving how comfortable and easy it is to let the folds and creases fall as they are.
She reminded us that clothing needs to breathe and move with every movement we make - we shouldn't deprive it of this natural and simplistic attribute.

Below, left to right:
The grey over sized hoodie returns
The velvet dress and loosely folded grey school socks
The open neck maroon sweater and gold buttons






Designer Elaine du Plessis of Christopher Strong
(don't worry, with a name like that, I thought it was a male designer too)
proved that although black remains quite the favourite amongst designers, neutral whites and pastel colours in excess can be just as powerful.
Casual wear made Elaine's winter wonderland one that shouted comfort and weightlessness. Creases and folds in the fabrics become the finishing detail on the outfits. Murmured comments of 'wow' and 'I like that' from the audience around me, reassured that the range was getting the exact reaction it wanted. I imagined having tea with Mussolini on some days whilst on others, stealing my dad's shirt and wearing it as a dress.
Shear linen and voile concluded the range and it's simplicity.


Below:
The shirt your dad didn't see you steal
The white dress and it's moment of breath





Colleen Eitzen's range this winter consisted of coats, jerseys with large neck openings, extravagant buttons and 3-quarter pants.
And of course a colour that I have only recently begun to like - turquoise. Yup. Bluey-turquoise. In belts and jerseys. Colleen seemed to concentrate on the simplicity behind only a pallet of 3 colours. Keeping it minimal, for too much colour can spoil an outfit.
There was an interesting look at the length of dresses. Summer waned the popularity of the short dress that ended far up above the knee - this winter however lengthened it to just below the knee. Making it still warm enough for any winter chill, but also glamorous and not too formal. And of course the appearance of the short waistcoat.

Another popularity this winter: Neutral hair and make up.
No longer should hair fall in the face or be gelled back in places to make you look like you went to a Cindy Lauper concert.
No, hair this season is tied back into pony tails and is neatly pinned back.
As for the make up too - neutral and classic. Clothing, this winter should say enough - not the make up.


Back later
Paris B


Below:
White fleeting detail
Turquoise has a new face