Ok. So it has been (counts fingers) 6 months since we last spoke; boy is it good to be back.
My name is Paris B and I'm coming to you straight from the winter collections fashion week, held at Arts On Main in the heart of Jozi.
Ok let’s just get one thing straight, finding this place was a mission. No jokes.
My first time at Arts On Main (don’t laugh – it’ s embarrassing I know) and already I feel like I need a passport to get to this place.
I arrive in the Jozi twilight, ready, willing and able to see what our beautiful country has been hiding from us over the past 6 months.
And then, as if rain from the sky (sans the rain however) I suddenly understood what the big ‘hoo ha’ had been about – the venue, is amazing. Scout’s Honour.
Imagine a larger, more urban 44 Stanley mixed with a birthplace for various studios, like the David Krut and Kim Lieberman’s studio space, to come together in unison to celebrate ‘art’ in every form possible.
See what I mean?
Waiting for tonight’s first show to start (Elle New Talent 2010) I noticed how the neglected elevator in front of me – ridden with tales from Jozi’s yester-years – had been filled with multi-coloured balloons. When I mean filled I mean ‘chock ‘n block’.
The array of infused colour continued as the strings of rainbow light bulbs filled the space in front of met. It was the perfect setting to showcase some of South Africa’s latest up and coming new, young and fresh talent.
The list of designers included Marize Malan (winner of the 2009 Debut Collection), Laila Baderoon, Cleo Droomer, Elme Bekker, Kutloano Molokomme, Oriel Barnard, Este van der Westhuizen and Ntokozo Kunene.
The challenge? What does optimism in South Africa mean to you?
And how does one incorporate such a topic into clothing that is commercial, accessible to the masses yet still at the same time retain a sense of individuality? With Mr Price as a partner, this couldn’t be done any better.
In the words of Amber Jones (and of course, Frank Sinatra), ‘The Best is Yet To Come’.
And so it was. In an hour we were shown how black remains the ‘designers’ pet and how cuts and structure is no longer a limitation for designers.
Marize Malan spoiled us with jagged cuts and overlapping fabrics engulfed in creams, greys and subtle browns.
Laila Baderoon drenched us in the memory of the stripe and with it, the warm beaches of Cannes. Along with the stripe, there was the revival of high waist belts, leg warmers and ‘screaming loud – but just enough’ accessories.
Ntokozo Kunene experimented with detail to emphasise cultural ethnicity and diversity. Reminiscent fragments of Ndebele patterns and their primary colours as well as the use of huge ponchos (like the blankets worn by the Xhosa Mapoggas’s) enriched South Africa’s cultural identity.
Cleo Droomer – this year’s Elle New Young Talent Winner – brought back a whole new meaning to minimalism as a form of optimism. By using minimalism he re-introduced fashion as a second skin rather than just something we use to define ourselves. At just 21 Cleo revived pastel ice cream parlour colours, pistachio green, pale purples, limes and the faded colours of morning twilight. The clothing existed as it was – in it’s moment. There was marriage between French meringues and Claude Debussy in one ultimate moment of beauty.
The clothing of Elme Bekker danced and folded at ease as the models walked. Brevity, Lightness and Simplicity were words that came to mind.
Este Van Der Merwe engulfed us in the vibe and forever breathing life of the urban city. Whether it’s the heart of Egoli, Ekapa or Durbs, there was attitude written all over her designs. The ethnicity of black, orange and white met coherently at the same place where city attitude and self-expression was born.
Kutloano Molokomme looked at embracing the variety of living in South Africa. Met with new and different things every day, we forget how diverse the country is. Amalgamations of colour and culture met at grass woven shoulder pads and classic African patterns.
Yeah. You heard me. Grass – woven – shoulder – pads.
Oriel Barnard exclaimed that she was inspired by rock and roll. Being a band groupie. Move away from bands like The Smiths and The Sex Pistols and instead dig deeper into our world’s history. Way back into the early 20’s and 30’s where Cabaret and The Great Gatsby was the talk of the day. A time where pink feather jackets and hidden cigarettes shouted sophistication.
At the end, as Cleo Droomer was announced the 2010 Elle New Young Designer Winner,
Jackie Burger had the last word.
‘Optimism is contagious’ she said
(And Goosebumps ran up and down my spine)
‘Emotion inspires the range… the future, is unexpected’
At this point my jaw was close to shear dropping point when Dion Chang added:
‘There is a need for the return of the eccentric between the truth and the madness'
Back later
Paris B
Below from left to right:
Kutloano Molokomme's grass shoulder pads
Cleo Droomer's Vinyl/plastic lime jacket
Ntokozo Kunene's revival of the Ndebele pattern.
Winner Cleo Droomer receives his prize
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